Brovia owns a hectare and a half of old vines (planted in 1961) situated at 340 meters altitude in this characterful southwest-facing cru in Castiglione Falletto. Villero’s clay-limestone marl (though still containing some sand) renders a wine of powerful structure—one which often assumes a dark, brooding personality in its youth. We have always adored its uncompromising nature, as well as its ability to age with consummate breed, and this 2015 is a fascinating version. One might expect, given the vintage’s warmth, that this would be the most impenetrable wine of the lineup, but there is a real tension at its core, while the vintage’s fruit engenders a sense of relative openness. Still, it’s a feral wine with a strong grip, and one would be remiss not giving it some time in bottle to blossom.